Lightsaber Conversion/Upgrade?

Good point! I tried to do research and it wasn't really helping me. I think I'm just the kind who needs to be walked through it all

I remember enough from middle school to have a vague idea of what I'm doing, but I think a project like this needs more than that.

I'm posting this here for Cayce, because I can't use pictures in PM

Pictures of my current hardware:



Hilt - 1.45" wide and 12.375" long. Interior diameter goes from 1 to 1-1/4", switch hole 7/8"


LED - website says "multicolor RGB LED using 2 diodes" - 1" outer diameter


battery pack - standard, 4AAA


switch - maintained (guarded)

Well, if you don't mind, I'll respond to that, too, since it is public and can no doubt help either yourself or others regardless...

Leah Starspectre wrote: Hilt - 1.45" wide and 12.375" long. Interior diameter goes from 1 to 1-1/4", switch hole 7/8"

Do you have or can you measure and create schematics outlining exactly where the different interior diameters are? Regardless of your parts dimensions, you want the chassis to fit in tightly so that nothing rumbles about inside. Now, Ultra may not see it that way, and so long as he sells that's fair enough, but sensitive electronics can break when they aren't fixed and you do want to avoid shorting any of them out. Whether it also feels better when the only turbulences and vibrations come from the speaker's lower frequencies is of course a matter of taste.

LED - website says "multicolor RGB LED using 2 diodes" - 1" outer diameter

Do you know what manufacturer and model this is? Can you find out, if you don't? If no, keep the holder, dump the diode, buy a new one. Knowing what we do about Ultrasabers LED modules you are probably better of disassembling this thing altogether, whether you choose to use the diode or not. A collimator lens matching the LED is generally a more elegant and proficient solution than a reflector, though a little more expensive and you do need to know what kind of LED you are dealing with. On that note, when you do reassemble the LED module, make sure the LED base on the one hand can radiate heat off the emitter and into the hilt, but is on the other hand isolated from the LED base for safety (you may end up needing or wanting the hilt to be your ground).

battery pack - standard, 4AAA

That is a standardized battery holder, but since the batteries can be swapped this is not a standard pack. You do want to know whether all four are wired in parallel or in series or in pairs of two because that will make a significant difference on your input voltage. You also want to ensure to always use the same kind of batteries with this holder, if you choose to keep it at all. Rechargeable nickel based batteries this size typically have a nominal voltage of 1.25V, while lithium ion ones are usually at 3.7V which for some boards can mean the difference between not even getting them to run and getting them to fry on the spot, to say nothing of your LED. Capacities of batteries this size are typically rather low, especially in the rechargeable models. I recommend to read up on your options and the recommendations for the specific board you decide to use. Keep space requirements in mind, since this will be by far the most spacious of your internal electronics. They are also the heaviest one, which may matter to you if you care about balance.

switch - maintained (guarded)

For a single circuit flashlight setup as you seem to have this is just what you need. Force FX boards do need a momentary switch however, as do all hitherto released versions of the PL Nano Biscotte. Some boards do take latching ones.

Generally, your most expensive parts when it comes to electronics will be your board and your LED. They are thus also the choices that determine everything else you can do. Once you know which board feature list is most to your liking you know what kind of power supply you need and what kind of power output to your main LED you get. If you want a brighter, more powerful LED, you either want a more powerful board, or some sort of extension module. Keep in mind how narrow your space is and don't underestimate how much you actually will need. Consider also that the Initiate V4 is a single piece, so you won't be able to take it apart to fiddle around inside a lot. If I were to guess, I'd say space may be the most limiting factor in your project indeed. It would then of course not only limit your options, but your expenses, also.

Gisteron wrote: Well, if you don't mind, I'll respond to that, too, since it is public and can no doubt help either yourself or others regardless...

Leah Starspectre wrote: Hilt - 1.45" wide and 12.375" long. Interior diameter goes from 1 to 1-1/4", switch hole 7/8"

Do you have or can you measure and create schematics outlining exactly where the different interior diameters are? Regardless of your parts dimensions, you want the chassis to fit in tightly so that nothing rumbles about inside. Now, Ultra may not see it that way, and so long as he sells that's fair enough, but sensitive electronics can break when they aren't fixed and you do want to avoid shorting any of them out. Whether it also feels better when the only turbulences and vibrations come from the speaker's lower frequencies is of course a matter of taste.

LED - website says "multicolor RGB LED using 2 diodes" - 1" outer diameter

Do you know what manufacturer and model this is? Can you find out, if you don't? If no, keep the holder, dump the diode, buy a new one. Knowing what we do about Ultrasabers LED modules you are probably better of disassembling this thing altogether, whether you choose to use the diode or not. A collimator lens matching the LED is generally a more elegant and proficient solution than a reflector, though a little more expensive and you do need to know what kind of LED you are dealing with. On that note, when you do reassemble the LED module, make sure the LED base on the one hand can radiate heat off the emitter and into the hilt, but is on the other hand isolated from the LED base for safety (you may end up needing or wanting the hilt to be your ground).

battery pack - standard, 4AAA

That is a standardized battery holder, but since the batteries can be swapped this is not a standard pack. You do want to know whether all four are wired in parallel or in series or in pairs of two because that will make a significant difference on your input voltage. You also want to ensure to always use the same kind of batteries with this holder, if you choose to keep it at all. Rechargeable nickel based batteries this size typically have a nominal voltage of 1.25V, while lithium ion ones are usually at 3.7V which for some boards can mean the difference between not even getting them to run and getting them to fry on the spot, to say nothing of your LED. Capacities of batteries this size are typically rather low, especially in the rechargeable models. I recommend to read up on your options and the recommendations for the specific board you decide to use. Keep space requirements in mind, since this will be by far the most spacious of your internal electronics. They are also the heaviest one, which may matter to you if you care about balance.

switch - maintained (guarded)

For a single circuit flashlight setup as you seem to have this is just what you need. Force FX boards do need a momentary switch however, as do all hitherto released versions of the PL Nano Biscotte. Some boards do take latching ones.

Generally, your most expensive parts when it comes to electronics will be your board and your LED. They are thus also the choices that determine everything else you can do. Once you know which board feature list is most to your liking you know what kind of power supply you need and what kind of power output to your main LED you get. If you want a brighter, more powerful LED, you either want a more powerful board, or some sort of extension module. Keep in mind how narrow your space is and don't underestimate how much you actually will need. Consider also that the Initiate V4 is a single piece, so you won't be able to take it apart to fiddle around inside a lot. If I were to guess, I'd say space may be the most limiting factor in your project indeed. It would then of course not only limit your options, but your expenses, also.

Oh, I absolutely appreciate the input!

A lot of what you said kind of went over my head just now, though, lol.

BUT drawing out a schematic for the hilt is a great idea! I'll do that first, then start trying to sort out all the components...

Ok, for mine I used the obsidian 3.0 soundboard as when I ordered one for my custom build they for some reason sent me 2...I installed the momentary switch because it was needed and I swapped the plain batteries for li-ion...

My recommendation would be to buy a pre-wired momentary switch, pre-wired nano-biscotte, and an 18650 li-ion battery +holder from the custom sabershop...it will all be plug and play no soldering needed...and the battery holder will have a spot for the sound board....it will all fit at the pommel end of the aeon just fine...the most expensive item will be the soundboard at about $75 us....but it's well worth it as you can switch between 2 different sets of sounds, and can add sounds...the led should be just fine as ultrasabers only uses 1 brand for all their sabers...

Check page 3, there's a pic of the final wiring layout...that should help

https://www.templeofthejediorder.org/forum/Jedi-Art/110668-saber-build

That's an Initiate V4 though, not an Aeon. That's why I'm saying be careful about the spacing. If you are in fact dealing with more than one dye, a Nano Biscotte may not be enough to power it, but if you choose to employ a lens and proper heatsink rather than a reflector and glue, a single dye LED may be just bright enough for your needs. There is a lot of just-so solutions that will in fact work, and your first will of course not be the perfect saber, the one to rule them all. I just figure it is more appealing to be knowing as much as possible about every piece you plug in there so that the day it inevitably breaks is far ahead and that on that day you will be able to troubleshoot and fix it yourself rather than pay an expert for the service. I'm all for learning by doing, I'm just naturally lazier than I am wealthy, so I try to know as much as I can before doing anything lest I have to do too many things over.

Actually, it IS an Aeon. They're similar, but certainly different:


Initial v4


Aeon v4

Oh, I see. Never mind. The emitter threw me off, didn't see there was more Aeon models than one. Been ages since I even looked at Ultrasabers. :blush:

Not only is there several versions, each version has several finishes...they've expanded the selection by quite a bit...if you look at mine, it came with the recesses powder coated gold...